PAUL ANAGNOS’S HEMI SWAP IN A 89 FOXBODY … SAY WHAT?

To start off I had a variety of SBF setups. I had “ProCharged” H/C/I on meth injection setup, single turbo intercooled running boost from 10-20 psi with an aftermarket block. I had a fun fast car. What I didn’t have was a car I can just walk to turn the key and drive away.

I debuted doing a 6.0 LS swap. After talking to a good friend John Schneider he talked me out of it. I said screw it I’m going to HEMI swap it.

I bought a 545RFE transmission and ordered a 3400 stall edge converter from Matt at Moes Performance. I bought a junkyard ’06 long block, the doner car was a Grand Cherokee. I looked for awhile on the internet for anything about the swap and found nothing. What I did find is a lot of good information from Jeep, LX forums and old Mopar swap forums. Steve Schaap helped me drop the motor in and position it where it needs to be. I made motor mounts out of wood as a jig and then welded a set from 4″ square tubing and boxed it in for strength. This point wasn’t any difficulty in the swap the motor mounts used an aftermarket tubular k-member from UPR made for SBF and the mounts I made used factory locations. The stock Jeep exhaust manifolds fit and I used them.

Next came the fuel system, that was pretty easy, since the car was built previously for boost I just ran fuel to a boost reference regulator, removed the vac line to it and ran fuel to the rail ( fitting on HEMI rail is same as LS motor).

Wiring was actually one of the easiest thing i had to do. I talked to people at Hotwireauto.com he had me used a (hotrod harness for HEMI) and I bought an ’05 RAM computer that they flashed for me. The harness is great quality and basically plug and play. I only had 8 loose wires to attach and were very basic ( 12V hot, starter, ign hot …).

First big challenge was getting the large dodge auto trans to fit. I used a large hammer in alot of areas, doing this all over again i would have just cut the tunnel. The shifter im using a 3spd hurst 1/4 stick, modified the cable to attach to the shift linkage in the trans and no issues there. The cross member for trans was pretty strait forward and basic few pipes and bolted to frame rail on both sides.

The drive shaft was made local used a 727 dodge slip yoke with 1350 joints.

I made some 2 1/2 exhaust pretty basic nothing exciting.

The gas pedal was an issue, because the throttle body was drive by wire i needed to mount a pedal. I used a pedal out of a durango i found in the junkyard. Mounting it took some fabrication but its possible.

The whole point of the car was to get it in, and get it running, and work all the bugs out. Well that was easier then i had thought. The harness i used literally labled every wire and as soon as it was all connected it fired right up!

Tuning was actually not needed but made a massive difference and would highly recommend it. I purchased a diablo trinity ( i also use this as my primary gagues) since it uses the obd2 port its plug and play. Sean from hemifever custom tuning did my tune and i also highly recommend Them.

The motor is bone stock including exhaust manifolds, 3400 stall and a tune. It went 12.0 multiple times at the track diving 80 miles round trip.

The chassis is 89 mustang lx. It has been lightened with rear seat delete, tubular k member, UPR suspension, M/T drag radials, 3.73 rear gears, anti roll bar, ford 8.8 rear end welded, braced, c clip elims 35 spline axles with a spool.Cage was done by Lee from PsiRacingOnline, hand bent cormoly 1 5/8 tubing 10pt. Front brakes are aerospace engineering billet aluminum 4 piston with drilled and slotted rotors. Rear brakes are ford thunderbird turbo coupe rear calipers with fabricated caliper mounts and drilled and slotted rotors. Upper and lower torque box reinforcements, subframe connectors, fuel cell and walbro 255hp inline pump. Using -8an fuel line with a -6an return.

last year (2016) was a great test of the car since the motor was stock its not pushing more then 300whp. My goal 2017 which is allready in motion is to mount a turbo, low boost to get me around the 450whp range. This will not be a success unless it can literally turn the key and drive still, this is a street car build and will stay that way.

 

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